As we traveled away from Washington, DC, the Capitol Dome faded into the distance and the city skyline of the nearby Northern Virginia suburbs disappeared. It was replaced only an hour later by endless picket fences and stone walls, fall foliage, and quaint towns that line John Mosby Highway (Route 50) out to Middleburg, VA, where the resort is neatly tucked onto its own 340-acre estate. With my daughter joining me for the weekend trip, we made our way past the shops and weekend visitors going about their business in the village and proceeded just minutes from the center of town to the resort.
As the property came into view, it was as if we had been transported into another world, one of tranquility and peace. We were looking forward to a little bit of pampering over a weekend spent relaxing amid Virginia’s late autumn beauty.
Aerial view of Salamander Middleburg. Photo credit Jim Hanna.
As we made our way to the main entrance, we were welcomed by smiling faces and staff outfitted in equestrian attire — a lovely touch that most would not necessarily notice, but to us equestrians, it was appreciated. Nothing was overlooked, from hunt coats and breeches to boots and gloves. My daughter was impressed that the ladies were wearing wrap collared show shirts, properly named rat catchers.
As we entered the grand foyer, the reception area was not where you might expect it to be located. It seems that Salamander was looking to achieve the feeling of arriving at a private residence, rather than a guest facility, so the grand living room welcomes you before you head to reception. In fact, we were told later in the evening that the resort’s entrance and facade was modeled after the private residence of the owner and inspiration for the resort, Sheila Johnson.
The resort features a spectacular living room, which is the first space a guest encounters upon entering.
Every effort to make you feel like you are “coming home” has been achieved. We were welcomed by name, a personal touch that is a benchmark throughout the resort — a well thought out touch and one not as common in the hotel industry as you would think. We were also presented with personal letters of welcome from the concierge, stating that should we need anything, they were at our disposal.
The hallways were lined with artwork and photographs worth stopping to admire, unlike generic hotel art. We found our room by following the numbered plaques in the shape of riding helmets marking the doors down the hallway, and as we reached for our key cards to enter, not even this element was overlooked, as the cards themselves depicted photos of the resort and horses.
The hotel has 168 guest rooms with 17 additional suites. True to its description, our room was spacious and flawlessly appointed with two queen beds dressed in equestrian motif, a fireplace centered beneath the wall-mounted flat screen television, a luxurious bathroom with a marble shower and pedestal tub, and an enclosed water closet. Placing my bag on the convenient bench at the foot of the bed, I noticed the spread of food neatly laid out on the table for two at the far end of the room, alongside a welcome note simply but eloquently addressed to me: “A warm welcome to Salamander Resort & Spa.”
An afternoon snack awaiting us in the guest room following our trail ride.
We spent an hour or so enjoying our room, the fabulous bathroom, and the view from our private balcony outwards to the expansive countryside. We could also see the rear lawn of the resort, which consists of a fire pit lounge and a giant chessboard for guests to enjoy a life-size match. Also on the property are tennis courts, an outdoor pool complex, and nearby walking and bike trails.
View from our guest room balcony.
Salamander Equestrian Center
Our first stop on the property was the 25-acre on-site equestrian facility. Entirely dedicated to the equestrian program, the facility has nine paddocks and a 22-stall stable, an outdoor riding arena, and miles of trails. We were greeted by Equestrian Director Sheryl Jordan as we were led into the stable. For those readers who spend many hours in a stable, you’ll appreciate the attention to detail exhibited in the stable design. My teenage daughter remarked, “it looks just like the Breyer Stable I had when I was little.” Everything one needs to prepare the horse and rider is immediately on hand and sparklingly clean and neat. It’s how we wish we could organize our own stables.
The Stable at Salamander Middleburg. Photo credit Justin Kriel.
Sheryl walked us through the daily rhythm of the barn before our own trail ride out across the estate — a quieter counterpart to the carriage tours and yoga sessions the equine program has since become known for, and a reminder that underneath all of Salamander’s polish is a genuinely well-run, working stable.
Salamander History and Local Area
Despite only being open a few months at the time of our first visit, the team at Salamander was hard at work and dedicated to guests. Efforts to work closely with the town of Middleburg began with Sheila Johnson, founder and now CEO of Salamander Collection and a local resident herself. This partnership has ensured that guests and residents can both benefit from the revenue generated by the resort and local events and activities. With over 400 annual equestrian-related area activities that include polo events, steeplechases, and renowned historic horse shows, horse enthusiasts and travel lovers are in heaven. Resort guests also benefit from exclusive golf privileges at the nearby Jack Nicklaus Signature Course and over 50 Virginia wineries within an hour of the resort. Historic area tours can be arranged in between shopping trips to Middleburg, where old-world charm seems to remain preserved.
Some area highlights include the Virginia Tech MARE Center, known for developing an exceptional sport horse breeding program. The National Sporting Library and Museum in the center of Middleburg is the largest museum in the country dedicated to preserving and sharing the literature, art, and culture of equestrian, angling, and field sports. Great Meadow is home to the twice-annual Virginia Gold Cup steeplechase race events. During the summer months, guests of the area may also enjoy an evening of Twilight Polo. Local renowned horse shows not to be missed include the Washington International Horse Show and the Upperville Horse and Colt Show — America’s oldest horse show.
Salamander Middleburg has since gone on to earn Forbes Five-Star ratings across food, accommodations, and spa — one of only five properties in the entire U.S. to hold all three. It’s also worth noting: Salamander Middleburg and Half Moon Resort in Montego Bay, Jamaica — which we’ve also written about extensively — are sister properties under Sheila Johnson’s Salamander Collection.
Whether you set out for a sunset bike ride, take a garden stroll to let your thoughts wander, or toast s’mores at the fire pit and share a nightcap to round out your day, Salamander Middleburg will leave your mind rested and your body relaxed with a better sense of being and overall wellness.
For everything there is to do once you’ve settled in — the carriage rides, yoga, spa, and dining — read our companion piece, Beyond the Ride: Yoga, Wine, and Spa at Salamander Middleburg.