The sleigh bells at Gentle Giants Sleigh Rides in Stowe, Vermont. If you grew up watching Irving Berlin’s 1954 classic, White Christmas, then you appreciate what I envisioned when a wedding invitation arrived for a winter wedding near Stowe, Vermont. I have traveled all over the world but I had yet to visit Vermont, New England’s winter playground, so I was most excited. I’d only dreamed of what it might be like to spend a winter holiday in such a picture-perfect setting. Despite my excitement, I was wondering if I might have an unrealistic expectation from the movies.
Travels to Vermont
As I started the drive north to Vermont, I imagined the idyllic Vermont inn, the skiing, the sleigh rides, and the snow. Although Washington, D.C. does see a good amount of snow each season, it has been a number of years since there has been a good snowfall, so I was excited beyond description at the thought of it all, particularly all that snow.
We drove further away from the hustle and bustle of Washington, D.C. – NYC corridor, and continued through Connecticut and Massachusetts. As the landscape started to change, I felt as if I was en route to a foreign country and I was as giddy as a child. The evergreens started to appear in perfect rows and line the narrowing roads that twisted in and out of quaint mountain towns. There were several “oh, look!” outbursts from the car as we passed signs for bear and moose crossings.
Still something was missing… where was the snow? I started to worry that unlike the happy ending in White Christmas, where the snow started to fall just in time for the finale, I would not be so lucky to have a winter wonderland blanketed in white waiting for me upon arrival.
We arrived at the Maple House Inn, in Morrisville, just north of Stowe. One of the newer bed and breakfasts serving the northern Green Mountains ski country, it was perfect for our first Vermont experience.
That night, as if on cue, the snow started to fall, and by morning over 20 inches had been measured.
We settled into the inn, (also the home of the bride) where our family was staying for the week. With our accommodations in the farmhouse, the clawfooted tubs, quilts on the beds, and a smell of apple cider throughout was a welcoming aroma that made me feel at home despite having only been there minutes. We were greeted with a hot meal on the table, and after the long drive, we went to bed dreaming of snow, in the hopes that it would start to fall.
The Maple House Inn in Morrisville, Vermont.
For ski-in/ski-out lodging, the Stowe Mountain Lodge is the place to be. Although we did not need accommodations this trip, I am definitely going back to stay with them. A huge thanks to Peter Mix at the concierge desk at the Stowe Mountain Lodge for all of his help and knowledgeable suggestions!
The author’s daughter on the slopes.
Adventures in Dog Sledding in Vermont
After a few hours relaxing at the Inn from our day of skiing, we headed out for an evening dog sledding tour right in Stowe! Umiak Outdoor Outfitters offers several dog sledding options but we decided to start with the 20 minute evening tour run out of Stowe and offered two evenings a week during the winter months. The snow was still falling and I have to admit that I am not an experienced snow driver. With my cousin’s four-wheel drive and very cautious and slow turns, we pulled up at the Stoweflake Resort and Spa, where we were to meet our dog sledding guide. With a few minutes to spare, we kept warm by the fireplace inside the Stoweflake Resort and Spa. I took the liberty to peek in at their Spa, which looked so relaxing and lovely, but that would have to be for the next trip, as it was time to meet the Siberian Huskies eager to pull our sled with an age-old form of transportation.
Nighttime dog sledding with Umiak Outdoor Outfitters.
Umiak’s website was right: “This affordable introduction to Stowe sled dog rides is a wonderful way to end a day of skiing!” Reservations are necessary, so plan ahead to ensure your spot!
Trail Riding in Vermont in the Winter
We set out the next morning and headed towards Jeffersonville, VT, about 45 minutes north of Morrisville. The snow had stopped falling and the sun was peeking up over the mountains at us. A beautiful day for trail riding on horseback!
We followed our GPS navigation system that led us through several small towns until we lost service and had to use conventional methods of navigation for the last leg of the drive (reading the street signs). As much as I hoped to not get lost with my teenage daughter in the middle of Vermont, there was a peaceful relief knowing that we were out of reach of any calls, emails, or streaming data that we all categorize as normal in most of our everyday lives now. We pulled off the road and followed the signs to park the car and headed up the rest of the hill on foot. As we started up the hill, a horse-drawn sleigh came out of nowhere. It was just as beautiful as you could imagine and hard to believe that it was all real.
Horse-drawn sleigh coming downhill.
We stepped onto the porch and into the rustic office to introduce ourselves to the group of young guides at Lajoie Stables. I was extremely excited for this part of our trip, as not only had I never been trail riding in the snow before, but this would be my first experience riding in a western saddle. Yes, my first time. Thankfully, our horses were very calm, because I did not feel as though I had the same element of control that I do when riding English disciplines. Our guide, Brooke, was very sweet and personable, laughing and talking to us the whole ride. She pointed out the mountain peaks and explained some of the history about Lajoie Stables, and we all exchanged stories about our love for horses and riding. We were amazed at her tolerance to the cold as our fingers and toes slowly started to freeze.
We were prepared for the elements with everything from full-length chaps, long underwear, hand and feet warmers, and ear bands under our helmets, but with temperatures in the low twenties, Mother Nature had the upper hand. As we left, I had a new respect for working with horses in the cold. I will never have the right to complain at a horse show again after what I saw these girls enduring. The horses, on the other hand, loved it!
A many thanks to Christina, Amanda, and Brooke for allowing us this experience while on our trip to Vermont. Not only was this ride enjoyable to us as experienced equestrians, but being out of my element and in a western saddle, I am confident that non-riders or those with little experience would feel very comfortable on this trail.
A Horse-Drawn Sleigh Ride in Vermont
A horse-drawn sleigh ride is a classic experience not to be missed during your time in Stowe! So that is exactly what we did. What winter vacation would be a dream come true without the perfect sleigh ride to end the week.
The morning after the wedding at the Maple House Inn, I joined ten family members for a New Year’s Eve sleigh ride with Gentle Giants Sleigh Rides in Stowe, across the street from the Topnotch Resort and Spa, which can arrange other horse riding excursions.
There was a light flurry of snow falling as we all climbed into the 12-passenger sleigh. Its bright red paint stood out against the pure white snow. The large Percheron horses stood more than 18 hands high, looking eager to start their day of work. The mountain winds carried the sound of their harness bells into the distance, as if it were a part of nature itself.
The horses at Gentle Giants in Vermont.
Our driver had been seasoned in the trade many years before, and as I sat next to him in the front of the sleigh, it was evident that, like with any partnership with a horse, this team was at ease together and communicating effortlessly.
A full sleigh in Vermont.
The sleigh was turned toward the stable, and we passed one last time through the covered bridge. As we all tend to reflect about the year gone by on New Year’s Eve, I couldn’t help but think that this was a perfect way to enter from one year into another, with one’s family, in a “two” horse open sleigh.
Thank you to Rochelle of Gentle Giants, our driver, and of course our horses Donny and Mack, such beautiful animals that gave us such wonderful memories for our first visit to Vermont.
Local Vermont Culture
Other local culture that we experienced was literally a taste of Vermont with a tour of the famous Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory in Waterbury. On the drive back to our Inn, we enjoyed the local shops and winter scenery and, of course, picked up the state’s most famous product, maple syrup.
Although we were in Vermont for a week, we did not have enough time to get to everything we wanted to do. When you are next in Stowe, be sure to check out its galleries, antique stores, and art events, and other local highlights from ice climbing near Smuggler’s Notch, snowmobiling, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, ice skating, sledding, and more!
See you on the trails!
A note on planning your own trip: several of the smaller, family-run operators in this piece — including Lajoie Stables and Gentle Giants Sleigh Rides — may have changed hands, hours, or availability since our visit, as is common with small seasonal outfitters in ski country. Umiak Outdoor Outfitters is confirmed still running dog sledding tours out of Stowe. We’d recommend calling ahead to confirm current operations before building a trip around any specific outfitter named here.