Combine Toronto with riding the Niagara Peninsula for a weekend getaway!
Fall is in full swing this October morning as I land in Toronto. With only a few days to explore, I have a few must-see items on my to-do list. I’ll first explore the shores of Lake Erie and southern Ontario, known as the Niagara Peninsula… by horse, of course.
About an hour and a half drive south of Toronto on the Queen Elizabeth Highway, or QEW as it is known in these parts, I drive through the heart of Ontario’s wine country, flanked by vineyards and trees ablaze with vibrant reds, yellows and oranges as I navigate my way towards HorsePlay Niagara. A steady, but peaceful rain pelts my rental car as I gaze out at Lake Ontario to my left, as I head to Port Colborne in southern Ontario.
Upon arriving, I am greeted by the owner, Kathy Buttigieg, a former competitor and instructor, now devoted to managing HorsePlay full time. As my horse is prepared for the ride, Kathy speaks to me about the horses and the family business and explains how they have trail rides available for all levels, from no experience to advanced riders, as well as private rides and everything in between.
Upon arriving, I am greeted by the owner, Kathy Buttigieg, a former competitor and instructor, now devoted to managing HorsePlay full time. As my horse is prepared for the ride, Kathy speaks to me about the horses and the family business and explains how they have trail rides available for all levels, from no experience to advanced riders, as well as private rides and everything in between.
I opt to take the two-hour advanced trail adventure beach ride through the adjacent farms and fields, neighboring forests, and then end with a beach ride on Lake Erie, on the southern coast of Ontario. I set off with the owner’s daughter as my guide, the lovely Tina. We spend the ride talking about our love for horses, her family’s horse business, and the Canadian seasons.
Setting out on the trail at HorsePlay Niagara.
As we navigate the narrow paths between the trees, Tina points out the soybean fields and rose tea trees, wild grape vines and trees. I ask about the wildlife and learn that there are often deer, coyote, and fox that come out to greet the guests as they pass through on horseback.
Tina’s favorite season is summer, when lilac grows at the edge of the trails and herons soar overhead. The rain continues to fall and despite being soaked to the bone, I hardly notice being wet as I take in the landscape around us. In between our chats, we take short trots and then canters down long stretches of path. Tina points out that these paths were once railway tracks that had been made into local trails for hiking and bikers as well as us horse-folk. The path and former railway stretched all the way to Buffalo and back. Known as the Trans-Canada Trail, this is the world’s longest network of recreational trails, made up of more than 400 community trails from coast to coast to coast.
As of 2026, the Trans-Canada Trail has grown considerably since our ride — it now stretches more than 30,000 kilometers (about 18,600 miles), officially connecting every province and territory across Canada’s Atlantic, Pacific, and Arctic coastlines. It’s a good reminder that a trail network like this is never really finished; it just keeps growing.
We eventually arrive at a clearing and can see Lake Erie in the distance. Tina explains that the winding road we will soon cross is Lakeshore Road, an original American Indian trail that hugged the coast of Lake Erie, later paved over to make the road we see ahead.
Crossing the road, the trees open up to the vast beach, and Tina points towards the point of land in Ontario called Fort Erie, one of the most historic sites from the War of 1812 and today well known to ships as a marker for navigation. We walk the horses onto the beach and into the water and pause for some photos. The horses enjoy the break for a cool drink in the lake. Across the lake, in the far distance, is New York State and Pennsylvania — difficult to see on this windy and rain-filled day, but surreal all the same to be in Canada looking out onto the shores of the United States.
We walk the horses back onto the beach and Tina asks if I am up for a gallop. As the horses pick up speed, we gallop side by side along the beach. I turn to Tina as we gallop along and I say, “this is why I ride.”
As we take the path off the beach and head toward the road back to the farm, Tina continues to point out the local wildlife and nature, complete with a fox’s den. The rain stops and the sun begins to dry us out. We enjoy another canter along the path home and pass another group from HorsePlay on their way out to the trails. I thank Tina and my horse and set off on my next adventure of the day.
As we take the path off the beach and head toward the road back to the farm, Tina continues to point out the local wildlife and nature, complete with a fox’s den. The rain stops and the sun begins to dry us out. We enjoy another canter along the path home and pass another group from Horseplay on their way out to the trails. I thank Tina and my horse and set off on my next adventure of the day.
Niagara Falls: Canadian Style
A short half-hour drive from HorsePlay and I am at Niagara Falls! Parking is easy, and I set off to explore the Canadian falls. Having worked up quite an appetite from my morning ride, I lunch at the appropriately named Edgewater Tap and Grill, directly overlooking the falls. Quite a view, I must say! A warm Canadian chowder with a side of sweet potato fries is the perfect choice to warm me up.
After lunch I walk along the Niagara Parkway and the White Water Walk with spectacular views of the American falls and New York State just a few hundred feet away. Also visible is the adjacent Horseshoe Falls. The popular tourist Niagara cruises travel up and back on the waters below to the base of Horseshoe Falls.
It’s fun to see the Canadian cruise tourists on one boat in their red raincoats while the American cruises came and went from the US in their blue ones. Other fun tourist attractions include the journey behind the falls, only available on the Canadian side, and the view from above from the Skylon Tower or the Niagara SkyWheel.
I marvel at the proximity of the U.S. and the steady exchange of cars coming and going from one country to the other over the Rainbow Bridge border crossing before heading back to explore the casino resort galleria shops.
Boats below the falls
I make sure on my drive out of Niagara to take the road towards Toronto. An easy wrong turn and I might have ended up in the queue to the U.S. border crossing!
Exploring Toronto
Next stop: Toronto and a trip to the top of the CN Tower, Toronto’s most famous landmark. Standing 1,465 feet above the city at the SkyPod level, I take the daunting 58-second elevator ride to the lookout level for a thrilling view. A member of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World, as named by the American Society of Civil Engineers, the CN Tower has views that stretch over 100 miles and as far as Niagara Falls and the USA. I walk the windy outdoor lookout level admiring Lake Ontario and then sit on the world-famous glass floor — but only for a few seconds, as it is a frightening notion to have only a piece of glass between me and the city below. The outside, no-railing EdgeWalk, harnessing you to the exterior of the tower, was not for me, but something for the adrenaline addict seeking additional excitement.
Toronto’s skyline from the CN Tower.
Once safely on the ground, a casual stroll up Front Street takes me to the 200-year-old St. Lawrence Market and Toronto’s Old Town. Housing over 120 specialty vendors showcasing crafts and a variety of foods including fruits and vegetables, meats, fish, and dairy products to name a few, the market was named the world’s best food market by National Geographic Traveler back in 2012 — a title that still feels earned, judging by the selection of olives and meats on offer.
The city spreads out below.
With my taste buds fully activated by the market experience, I ended that particular trip with dinner at a nearby French bistro called Le Papillon — a Toronto institution with lofted ceilings and exposed brick, the perfect spot to relax and reflect on a memorable first visit to Canada and the Toronto area.
Le Papillon closed permanently in December 2023 after 50 years in business. If you’re planning your own trip, Toronto’s Old Town and St. Lawrence Market neighborhood still has plenty of excellent dinner options to close out the day.