On a recent trip to visit family in France, I found the opportunity to discover what Versailles has to offer an enthusiastic horse lover. Having lived in France for many years as a schoolgirl, I had visited the Château of Versailles on countless occasions and was familiar with the vast grounds on which it sits.
As any equestrian would, I had long wondered what it must have been like to trot down the long, tree-lined corridors and gallop through the nearby forest in the shadow of the Royal Palace.
I contacted La Grange Martin, a local horseback riding facility that could take me on a two-hour ride inside the royal gardens. We agreed to meet at the gate of St. Antoine, better known as “La Porte St. Antoine,” to saddle up and start our trek toward the Château.
It was a beautiful March morning, the air still a little crisp — perfect conditions for a royal stroll on horseback. Having just arrived the day before, I was still a bit jet-lagged, but thrilled all the same for an experience that married my interest in history with my passion for horses.
The entrance gate before setting off.
Jean-Luc Auclair, owner of La Grange Martin, and his associate helped unload the three horses from the trailer and tacked them up. We mounted, posed for a few photos, and set off through the Gate of St. Antoine, named for Marie Antoinette, whose farm lay just beyond it.
Getting ready to mount up.
Riding Through the Royal Gardens
Mounted on Argentine horses, Jean-Luc explained he used these horses for polo matches, a sport he’d taught and played for years. Knowing our mounts were skilled at polo, I braced for more than a leisurely stroll. As we passed under the arch of La Porte St. Antoine, I was carried back in time, imagining what it might have been like to be part of the royal court, taking a morning ride of my own.
The paths were lined with trees that seemed to stretch to the sky. We rode past Marie Antoinette‘s farm, Le Hameau de la Reine, a gift from the King modeled after a peasant village in Normandy. The daffodils were in bloom, the new grass a bright green, taking its first breath after a long, cold winter.
The History of the Gardens
The gardens of Versailles, spanning more than 800 acres, were commissioned by King Louis XIII in the early 1600s. His son, King Louis XIV, would go on to fully realize his father’s vision.
We headed toward the rear gardens of the Domaine de Versailles, deliberately designed to give the illusion of being deep in the countryside. These paths led us past the Grand Trianon, one of the King’s favorite retreats from life at court. Not far away stood the Petit Trianon, a smaller version and the favorite escape of Marie Antoinette and King Louis XVI.
We rounded the Grand Canal, passing France’s contemporary weekend Presidential retreat neighboring the gardens — grounds with their own royal-era history not far from Marly-le-Roi, another of the era’s storied royal escapes.
We returned to La Porte St. Antoine, where our ride had begun, feeling every bit like royalty as we nodded to passersby, catching a whispered “who is she — what an experience it must be to ride through these royal gardens!”
It was an experience unlike any other. Knowing these paths and views were once reserved for royalty alone made it a genuine privilege to be transported back through history. Much of what you see in the gardens today dates back to the 17th century. After the French Revolution, the National Convention chose to open the gardens to the public rather than let them fall to ruin — and it’s because of that choice that horseback riders can still enjoy these paths today.
More information on the Domaine de Versailles.
Plan Your Visit
Where: Versailles, about 20 minutes by train from central Paris.
The ride: A guided horseback route through the gardens typically runs about two hours, passing Le Hameau de la Reine, the Grand Trianon, and the Grand Canal.
To ride through the gardens of Versailles, La Grange Martin offered this experience at the time of our visit; contact them at lagrangemartin@aol.com to confirm current availability, or look to newer operators now offering similar rides through the gardens, including Horse in the City and Nomad Riders.
A note on operators: several smaller riding outfits around Versailles, including La Grange Martin, may have changed since our visit — confirm current availability before booking, or consider one of the newer operators now running similar routes through the gardens.
Pair it with: the Académie Équestre de Versailles for a full day of Versailles on horseback.
